So there I was in Baja when...

Dec 19, 2020

So there I was, in the middle of Baja California, Mexico, 50 miles from closest shack. No phone reception. No Internet.

And apparently no air in my front tire, either.

I thought I had brought the right tool to fix a flat tire but apparently I hadn’t. To make matters worse I was supposed to get to the next town so I could have a business phone call. How could I be so careless as to ride across Mexico like a madman jeopardizing my business??? How could I be so hedonistic?

What an idiot.

I flagged down a car to see if they had the right tool: “Ingles o espanol?” I enquired. They were from South Dakota and very friendly but very much did not have the right tools.

The next person to come down the road was a motorcyclist. I flagged them down. I wasn't sure if was a man or woman at first. They had long, grey hair, big hands and a gruff voice. “I don't think I got the tools ye need.” She said. “But I've been riding for 40,000 miles. Well, I crossed the US twice in both directions. Well, it’s been 6 months, maybe 7, and mah house is 55 mahls that a way" indicating the direction I was going. “I got a spare room and ye ken stay if you want ter. And all the tools ye could need.“

And here I thought my 1000 mile trip was hedonistic. I quickly decided that I wasn’t going to make my meeting and such is life.

Ilisia was QUITE a character. She graduated as an electrical engineer from University of Washington at age of 18. Built a renewable energy company “before that was even a thang” and sold it at 27 and has been retired ever since. Then she sailed around the world 3 times in her sailboat on the open seas (partially with her daughter) before quasi-settling down in middle of nowhere Baja Mexico because the town “embraced us in a big warm hug the moment we set foot on soil." She has 3 motorcycles. Four houses. An airstrip she gave to the town (for her plane, of course). A clinic she gave to the town. The first Internet provider in the town. Everyone knows her in town.

And somehow she did all this with perhaps the worst Spanish I ever heard. (Just goes to show that people who say they need learn Spanish before going to Mexico are making excuses.)

(a “glamping” —really just ramshackle tent—on a hemp farm I stayed at. If you are looking to buy 200lbs of weed I know a guy…)

After a few days staying at her house, I realized that she had a well-formed opinion about just about everything. I asked how I should learn to hangglide. She said the best place in the world is a place in San Diego. “How did you learn? I asked.

“Well. I read a book and then I jumped off a cliff.”

”You what!? No classes?!”

Her late husband was in some in Vietnam “but not in the army. Something else”.

“like black ops?”

“You might say that but I can’t say.”

“Oh. Well, I read a book about black ops in Vietnam. Intense.”

“He was one of one-hundred-an-twenty-fahv black ops marines before that was even a thang.”

We developed few aphorisms at her house:

Life is like riding a motorcycle. There's no reverse.

The 1st rule of life: keep on riding. The 2nd rule is: don't forget the first rule. The 3rd rule: don't forget to put up the kickstand.

After a few days I left. Though I know I'll see her again. What a great experience. Sometimes I tell myself “Kyle, you gotta pay more attention. You gotta be more responsible.” And then I REALLY bugger things up and land on my feet. The only lesson I can learn from this is get more flat tires. Add that to the list of aphorisms.

Now I’ve made it to Todos Santos, MX. The place has welcomed me with open arms.

The weather is perfectly warm. And the tacos are delicious. The people are sharp, kind and creative. I might be here for a few months. If you’re interested in coming to visit me or renting a house together let’s talk!